223 Case Preparation

Case Preparation methods

(compiled opinions from different forums)

I like One Shot (OS) because it's easy to use.

One shot is probably the worst product I've ever used in the reloading realm. I just got another guy here to quit that trash. One shot sucks as a lube... which kinda defeats the original purpose. And then it's a bitch to get off. Having to wash the shit off with water is ridiculous... I've been there and wasted my time doing it.

Dillon case lube is infinitely superior in every way. It actually lubricates the case... novel concept. :eek: And I can tumble a load of brass for 30 minutes and have all of the lube off. With One Shit, I could tumble for hours, and still have nasty, filthy goo all over my cases. I'd like to slap the dog shit out of the creator of One shot.

Here's my case prep method:

Tumbler and Walnut media.

Dillon case lube. ;) - resize and decap.

Tumble off lube with Walnut. - 30 minutes

Spot check headspace and brass length with Dillon case guage.

Remove crimp (if necessary) with Hornady hand crimp removal tool.
(I use the bit in a hand drill if I have more than a handful of cases)
I tried the Dillon Super Swager, and sold it. I didn't really like it.

Then I prime the brass... That' it.

I don't trim cases, since I can get 3 loads out of brass before they need it. And I only load brass 3 times. I use a Lee Factory crimp die so I don't have to worry about any slightly long cases that may slip through.

Oil vs. Primers (http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/bot39.htm) at Box of Truth.

Lessons learned:

1. Was this test "fair"? No, absolutely not.

It was about ten times more severe than any normal situation, where oil might come into casual contact with a cartridge. No one puddles oil on the primers of their ammunition for 6 weeks at a time. This test was a Worse Case Scenario.

Might different ammunition and different oils react differently than those in this test? Yes, that is possible.

2. Will casual oil likely invade and "kill" primers in cartridges? No. This rumor is greatly exaggerated.

3. Is it possible that in some case, under special circumstances, that oil might kill a primer in loaded ammo? Maybe. But it would have to be a worse scenario than this one.

4. Should we then just get oil all over our ammunition? No, of course not. There is no need to court disaster. I will continue to keep my ammunition as dry as possible.

Some years ago I was running 2520 in my M1A and discovered I could cut group size 40 by deburring flashholes in the cases it was filling. I never saw any difference in stick powder performance from this process, though. The ball powders meter best, but are harder to light up.

""deburring flashholes""

this is one of the most neglected phases in reloading.

when i get more time i want to post the results of my "experimentation" with the interior deburring of flashholes



Do I need to separate my .223 brass from 5.56mm? I plan on replicating the LEO TAP 75 grain 80265 ballistically using a chrono and with help of someone who knows something about reloading. Of course for training purposes. Thanks gents for your unwavering support of my newbie Q's!:)


In my opinion, it's not necessary to segregate different head stamps of 223 and 5.56 unless you are going for ultimate accuracy.

Un-informed people will tell you that military brass is thicker than commercial brass.

This may be true of other cartridges, but I don't believe it to be true of 223 and 5.56.

I weighed a bunch of cartridge cases to figure this out...

223 vs. 5.56 case weights (http://ar15barrels.com/data/223weights.xls) (link requires MS Excel)

Differences in alloy COULD account for some of the differences, but certainly not all of it.